OONO DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC/DC 12V Control Voltage

The relay module is much smaller than I expected which is a good thing. The small size made it easy to mount inside the boiler control box. I only had three wires from the boiler control to the heat only thermostat. The battery powered thermostat only required two wires. I was able to use the OONO relay module to convert the unused third wire to a “C” wire by connecting a 24VAC transformer to power the thermostat. In that configuration, I was then able to replace the thermostat with a Honeywell Home RTH9585WF1004 Wi-Fi Smart Color Thermostat. I wired the OONO relay module as follows: 24VAC Transformer output red wire to thermostat R port; 24VAC Transformer output black wire to OONO input green wire and to thermostat C port; OONO input blue wire to thermostat W port; OONO SW1 (normally open) C1 red wire to boiler control S1 port; OONO SW1 No1 black wire to boiler control S2 port. The OONO SW2 (normally closed) wires are unused in this configuration. It works perfectly, no issues.

Exactly what I was looking for. Works well in my application.

I ran into the issue where I had to flow-pace a sampler via a flow meter's pulse output. The flow meter had a powered pulse output, and the sampler had a powered pulse input. The two loop powers negated each other, so I had to find a module to de-power the pulse loop, and still provide a dry normally-open contact. This product worked perfectly for very a very reasonable price. This will work for samplers, wireless telemetry systems, SCADA, and anything else needing a dry contact closure. Only the powered loop pulse output is needed. I did not need any additional DC power to power this module. Go With The Flow!

Bought this to control the heater relay on my furnace. I have a nest thermostat and the heater relay draws about an amp, which was causing an error on the nest as it's only rated for something like 250mA. At first I bought a standard relay pack that I could control with the nest and put the load on the relay instead. The relay pack I bought was supposed to work with 24VAC, but after trying three different relays, they were all having a chattering issue, probably because of the AC control voltage and being cheaply made relays.I bought this relay for the fact that it explicitly stated that the control signal could be 24V AC or DC. Wired it up where I had my old relay in place and it works like a charm.EDIT: Device failed in less than two weeks. Waiting for replacement from Amazon. I'm subtracting a star and will update further if the second device fails in a similar manner.EDIT 2: 2nd one has been working great.

Exactly what I needed g

Upgraded my cart to lithium battery and had to rework the charging port to 120v. The original port had a charging interlock switch safety system that prevents the cart from moving when the cord is plugged in and charging. Since that system used the 48v coming in from the charger to send power to the interlock switch, I had to use the 120v power going to the charger in the cart to do the same thing. The easiest option was to tap into the 120v inside the charger which I ran to the relay. The red wire on the NC end goes to the 48v lithium battery and the black wire runs to the charging interlock switch. When the cart isn't plugged in, that switch is closed passing 48v to the interlock switch. When it's plugged in, the relay trips and power is cut to the switch and the cart won't run. I'll probably wire up the unused normally open circuit to some LED lights to show it's charging when plugged in. So you could get two uses out of this relay.

These solid state relays are awesome. They are easy to wire and give you access to both the normally open and closed connections very easily even if you only need open or closed they give you an extra point of connection if you'll ever need it.

Have a simple 24VAC fan wire that I wanted to splice this relay into, using the Normally Closed side, that would trigger on my ERV fan when the main unit fan turns on. Ordered 1 and found the LED worked, but NC/NO side did not change with current change/LED being on/off. Figured it was a fluke, sent for a replacement, same issue with #2. Will be looking elsewhere